Perched between Florence and Pisa, San Miniato is a town that boasts a remarkable medieval historic centre. The area is famous above all for its white truffles, a local speciality. It is a place that offers more than just monuments; there are also tastings, walks, markets and events. Wandering through its streets, you may come across encounters that leave a lasting impression, such as the ‘ghost of San Miniato’.
Frederick II’s Fortress and the white truffle
The most famous vantage point in San Miniato is Frederick II’s Fortress, perched atop the town. Of the medieval fortification, the tower remains the most prominent feature; it was rebuilt following its destruction during the Second World War, with every effort made to restore its original architectural features. Its current state of preservation makes it one of the town’s most interesting monuments.
Climbing up to the Fortress is an absolute must, as it can also be reached via narrow streets within the historic centre, allowing you to admire the small artisan workshops along the way. The centre itself is easy to explore, with its characteristic narrow streets, alleys and small squares. The laid-back nightlife takes place in Piazza del Duomo, where you’ll also find the Palazzo dei Vicari and the Sanctuary of the Holy Cross.
Among the activities on offer here – which have become increasingly popular with tourists in recent years – are nature-based experiences such as hiking, camping and cycling in the countryside.
Let us get to know the countess. Matilda of Canossa lived between 1046 and 1115 and is known for having inherited a vast territory spanning Lombardy, Emilia and Tuscany. A great strategist – particularly given that this was an era in which women were undervalued – she became an ally of Pope Gregory VII, to whom she was, incidentally, also related.
In 1077, Henry IV arrived at Cannossa Castle, which belonged to Matilda, in the hope of securing the Pope’s revocation of his excommunication. It was here that the most fascinating story associated with the place unfolded. It is said that for three days Henry was ‘made to do penance’ by the woman, who elevated him spiritually through a series of trials and penances; this gave rise to the expression: ‘to go to Canossa’.
However, Matilda was later accused of having an intimate relationship with the Pope, of murdering her first husband and of political conspiracies. These slanders diminished her political power, and it was San Miniato that was literally protected by her, remaining within her fiefdom. From there, it is said that the countess’s soul and ghost continue to wander the narrow streets to keep her enemies at bay.